We saved our biggest adventure for our last day in D. Not on
purpose, but because the hike I was hoping to take in Siliguiri National Park
would be an all day event that would require nice or at least walkable weather,
and that had been in short supply during our first two days in D. But on Sunday
the weather forecast for Monday looked superb, and so we booked a one day trek
to Silkguiri National Park.
Our guide--a fortyish Tibetan named Dowa-- met us at six in
front of our house at six. The day looked promising, the sun was already risen
in a cloudless sky. Our vehicle was one of the ubiquitous hummer type vehicles
that clog the streets of D. We drove two hours over roads badly in need of
repair to recharge our starting point, the tiny village of Dahur. We ate our
breakfast of noodle soup and dumplings in a nondescript tow table, concrete
floor hole in the wall and set out.
The first part of the hike was going to be the toughest, an
eight kilometer (5 mile) hike with a 1000 meter (3000 feet) elevation gain. At
our first stop, after about an hour, we could see the Himalyan mountains in the
distance. It would, unfortunately, be our last glimpse of them today, as clouds
rolled in and not only obscured our view of the mountains for the rest of the
trip but would threaten rain and cause us to cut our hike short.
Along the trail, Jane starts to take notice of the chestnuts
lying on the ground and soon accumulated quite a haul. At our next stop, she
grabs a rock and starts smashing them open and sampling their contents. By noon
we reach the summit—a small village called Tonglu—and we can barely see our
hands in front of our faces. Thankfully, this is lunchtime. We are offered tea
and a choice for lunch of either noodle soup or chow mein in an unheated hut.
After a half-hour we start our descent down a broken down
wreck of a road that is a challenge for even the sturdiest of four wheel drives.
Thankfully, it is not long before we leave it and our back over rolling hills. By
the end we have covered nearly twenty kilomterers.
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